OTC WEBISODE 30 – Rock Hoppers
Posted on 01 September 2011 No comments
In this Webisode Basil takes a closer look at some strange little creatures on Submarine Island.
Abu Dhabi Flats Grunter
Posted on 15 December 2010 No comments
Basil takes a look at one of the unusual Grunter caught on the Abu Dhabi Flats, check it out.
Basil Attenborough – Spotted Eagle Ray
Posted on 06 December 2010 No comments
Taking a look back at past episodes from this season we catch up with Basil Attenborough in Ras Madraka as he checks out Nic’s Spotted Eagle Ray.
Basil Attenborough – Crabs of Ras Madraka
Posted on 04 November 2010 Comments (2)
Watch as Basil gets a good look at the unusual crabs of Ras Madraka during one of his walks, catch the rest of this show tonight at 18:00 on SuperSport One.
ALL ABOUT LURES WHEN SPINNING OR CASTING – PART III
Posted on 27 September 2010 No comments
Various ways to fish with lures
Spin fishing with lures in the salt whether shore-based or off a boat can be divided into four different categories or types of lures. Top waters, crank and stick baits, irons and plastics.Top Waters
Top waters can be broken into three different groups. Poppers and Chuggers that float but don’t cast so well, Floating Stick Baits and the third group GT Ice Cream type casting plugs that cast well but sink when not retrieved. Poppers and Chuggers – the only way to really fish this type of lure is to “bloop”, “chug”, or “pop” it, either by a firm pull on the rod (bigger baits) or a sharp crank on the reel (smaller baits). This method creates a large air-bubble type “pop” in the water which when viewed from below is silver in appearance. The only thing that really varies is the length of the “blooping” pull and the period pause in between. One can go from a short, sharp, fast popping type action, to a long, smooth, slow or fast pull. Depending on the conditions, the pause in between should vary. Normally in calmer water, the pause would be longer. In rough, choppier water, the pause would be shorter and the pulls sharper. This sort of technique can definitely pull fish to the surface in deep water and is a lot more productive on a calmer glassier type surface. Floating Stick Baits – the big difference between this and the Poppers and Chuggers is that the bulk of the lure sits below the surface and whilst it does float, it spends more time just beneath the surface than on the surface. As a result it is a lot more effective in a choppier sea condition and also in a strong current where the water is turbulent. There are two ways to fish this lure, the first one being a fairly steady retrieve where the stick bait will swim and wallow from side to side giving a really big broad-side flash type presentation. The other more popular technique is to slash or jerk it in a erratic gliding or sliding type action. Casting Plugs – these surface lures are undoubtedly the top distance and accuracy casting top water and can be fished in many different ways as opposed to other top waters. The most common technique is a long cast (cover more ground / more time on water), starting with a very fast retrieve which causes a lot of splashing and slashing on the surface. Thereafter one should slow down to a retrieve that gives a steady chattering or fluttering type action on the surface. This speed can be varied which will of course vary the action from a very slow almost wobbling type action to a very fast jumping or skipping type action. Should the fish be down deep a very high cast causing the GT Ice Cream to hit the water from directly above and dive deep quickly with the line coming down directly behind it as opposed to having to sink slowly with a full cast of flat line on the water is recommended. A deep-diving cast should always follow with a very fast retrieve to the surface and then slow down once the lure appears on the surface. When conditions are very choppy the cone-shaped GT Ice Cream is a good option when fished at the noisiest retrieve speed on the surface. The Needle Nose shape however and the Skinny Needle Nose can be fished almost sub-surface like a Stick Bait in these conditions. One would let the lure sink a little and then give it some erratic jerks up to the surface before letting it sink a bit and repeating the process. The Needle Nose and long Skinny however are definitely at their best with a glassier surface and when conditions are really glassy, the Skinny comes into its own. This is the only surface lure that can be fished at the fastest speed that you can possibly wind, which is often what it takes to get the strike from your fast moving game fish. Always remember the rod angle has a lot to play in the action of all these surface lures. More often than not the rod should be held at 90 degrees to the lure and either vertically or horizontal. In the horizontal position one would obviously be tending to pull the lure through a chop rather than over it whereas with the rod in the vertical position or with as much elevation as possible, the lure would tend to ride over the chop. When fishing with surface lures and braid, if you are using a constant retrieve with the rod pointing at the lure you will miss most of the strikes. It is far more effective to hold the rod at 90 degrees so that the fish can grab or engulf the lure and turn to go away before you apply the pressure or strike. The next article will continue with various ways to fish with lures…so keep posted.Barry’s Dorado in Fujairah
Posted on 17 September 2010 No comments
Barry goes tight with a good sized Dorado in Fujairah, check it out.
Barry’s Springer in Pomene
Posted on 01 September 2010 1 Comment
Barry lands himself a decent Springer, but has hassles with the locals when he tries to release it..check it out.
All About Lures – Part 2
Posted on 01 September 2010 No comments
Rigging Lures
Treble vs Single
This is the most important decision an angler has to make when it comes to fitting the lure with its hardware. There is a preference for singles rather than trebles for the following reasons. On smaller fish one is often faced with a scenario where the treble hook has embedded itself in both the upper and lower jaw making it extremely difficult to remove and causing a lot of damage to the fish and wasting time for the angler. Single hooks are obviously a lot easier to remove. A treble hook provides substantially more wind resistance when travelling through the air often causing the lure to pull to one side therefore decreasing distance and once in the water it has more of a parachute type effect on the lure than a single hook will have. The bite or distance between the point of the hook and the shank is significantly smaller when it comes to a treble than if a large single is used on the back of a spoon, for example. Bite is particularly important when a lot of pressure is going to be put on a fish as it significantly increases the holding ability in a fish’s mouth.Connecting the hooks to the lure
There are some really good quality split rings in the market. It is worth paying the extra money to ensure the extra strength. The size of the split ring should be determined by the amount of pressure that it is going to withstand and also the size of the eye of the hook that it is going to have to pass through. It is very important that the split ring can move freely through the eye of the hook. A good quality split ring would normally be stamped. This can be seen by the slight kink where the two ends meet keeping the wires in line. It is often a good idea to incorporate more than one split ring between the last eye on the spoon and the eye of the hook giving the hook more freedom of movement to fold back during flight in the cast and also to provide the whiplash stinger type effect when the fish hits the lure from the side. Should one want to create a parachute type effect to give the lure more stability at speed in the water, a bigger hook can be used and one can also incorporate a “split ring, swivel, split ring” link between the hook and the lure. This helps considerably when top speed retrievals are necessary. It is very important to make sure that when you work with split rings you do not stretch the wires apart. This often happens when somebody tries to open a split ring with split ring pliers but there is already a small swivel on the ring. It bends the wires and leaves a gap where a swivel or hook can slip in between the wires and work its way loose. We have spoken about the conventional rear rigging of your iron or metal lure. There is a very effective alternative which helps incredibly from a long casting perspective and also from a jigging or working the lure perspective. If you rig a stinger type hook to the front end of your lure, preferably by using a swivel onto the lure’s front split ring, a stiff wire rig off that onto a stiff hook rig, making sure that the hook you are using has a wider gape than the width of the spoon and hangs ever so slightly over the back of your spoon. This method of rigging is ideal for jigging or working the spoon, when a conventionally rigged spoon would normally “box” (this is when the bottom hook on the lure hooks the line above the spoon causing it to come sideways through the water). You will find that “stinger rigging” your spoon gives it a lot more action or kick in the water and really does wonders for long casts. The same sort of rigging technique can be used on surface plugs like GT Ice Creams especially when one is looking for a lot of movement on the surface and/or long casts. Next article will continue with various ways to fish with lures and how to look after your lures.Local Fan Worm Fishing in Pomene
Posted on 27 August 2010 No comments
Basil talks to the locals in Pomene, Mozam and gets a lesson on what exactly Fan Worms are, how to find them, and what type of fish go for them.
All About Lures
Posted on 22 August 2010 No comments






